Cantonese restaurant Lung Hin’s premium roasted goose is back on the menu
By Sol Vanzi
Images by Noel Pabalate
Hong Kong was the crown jewel of the British Empire when I first visited as a curious journalist in 1966. Setting for the BritishAmerican romantic drama film The World of Suzie Wong starring William Holden and Nancy Kwan, this British Crown colony was where foodies flocked for authentic Chinese food, prepared by the best and most experienced Chinese chefs in the world.
When the Cultural Revolution drove artists and chefs out of China, Hong Kong’s bustling tourism industry provided shelter and secure jobs, thus preserving Chinese culinary heritage for future generations to enjoy. Much earlier, in the early 19th century, a number of the Guangdong people went to North America. They ran many restaurants and gradually Cantonese food became the most popular Chinese food around the world.
Thanks to migration, most of the Chinese eateries abroad today are Cantonese restaurants, making Cantonese cuisine the most popular Chinese cuisine internationally. Also called Yue cuisine or Guangdong cuisine, it has a long history of about 2,000 years, dating back to the Han Dynasty (202 BC – 220 AD).
One of the oldest, most famous Cantonese dishes is roast goose, which is difficult and time-consuming to prepare, requiring more than 24 hours from butchering to final serving. No wonder it is rarely found on menus, available only for limited periods.
Chef Ken holds the roast goose that took him a day to prepare
When dining in Hong Kong, I always prefer roast goose over the blander pancake-wrapped Peking duck. Perhaps due to the long marinating period, goose meat turns out less gamey and more flavorful than its smaller cousin. Its very dark meat is almost the color of cooked beef while the skin is super crisp from several layers of honey, soy sauce, maltose, and Oriental spices. It is moist, sweet, and juicy without a hint of gaminess.
Roast goose is served in slices that include skin, meat, and bone, with no pancakes. It is best lightly touched with clear plum sauce, and chewed slowly for better appreciation.
We had the rare opportunity to partake of a roast goose lunch prepared from a century-old recipe by executive Chinese chef Leung Chi Kwan or Chef Ken at the elegant Lung Hin Cantonese restaurant, which is Marco Polo Ortigas Manila’s dining jewel. Starting with a plump six-kilo bird, Chef Ken ends up the next day with a mahogany-colored crisp roast goose less than half its original weight.
Chef Ken brings his over 20 years of training and experience in some of the world’s renowned hotels and Chinese restaurants in Ireland, Hong Kong, China, and Singapore. He utilizes a unique combination of faithful culinary tradition with enhanced culinary techniques.
Steamed Whole Japanese Scallop with Minced Garlic in XO sauce
Signature Stuffed Vegetarian Treasure in Inari Bag
Poached Garoupa with Wild Mushroom in Fish Stock
To celebrate the premium Roasted Goose in quarter, half, and whole portion sizes, a specially crafted set menu is also available together with Lung Hin’s signature dishes. The unique dishes include Steamed Seafood Dumplings with Caviar, Steamed Whole Japanese Scallop with Minced Garlic in XO sauce, and Poached Garoupa with Wild Mushroom in Fish Stock.
Also recommended are Chef Ken’s specialty dishes, including the Chilled Marinated Fresh Abalone with Sake and Soy Sauce, Deep-Fried Spare Ribs with Olive and Honey Sauce, and Baked Live Lobster with Supreme Stock. These and more are available as part of Lung Hin’s chef recommendations menu.
Savor the taste of the Golden Goose between now and Feb. 3, 2020.